Field notes
A simple way to price dog grooming by breed and coat
Why one flat price loses money, and how to build a tiered chart based on coat, condition, and time on the table.
A matted doodle is not a cooperative beagle, and charging both of them forty-five dollars is how groomers quietly go broke. One flat price feels simple and fair, but it punishes you for taking the hard jobs and rewards the easy ones. The doodle owner who has not booked a groom in four months walks away delighted that you spent two hours saving their dog from the skin out, for the same money the beagle owner paid for forty-five minutes. You ate the difference. Do that enough times and the books look busy while the bank account does not.
The fix is not complicated. You price the time and the difficulty, not the dog as an abstract idea. Here is a way to do that without turning every quote into an argument.
Price the four things that actually drive your time
Forget breed lists for a second. What you are really charging for is time on the table and how hard that time is. Four factors cover almost everything:
- Size. A toy shih tzu and a standard poodle are different jobs before you touch the coat. Bigger dog, more bathing, more drying, more clipping, more everything.
- Coat type. A short single coat is quick. A double coat needs a real de-shed and a high-velocity dry. A doodle or a poodle in full coat needs scissoring and patience. Hand-stripping a terrier is a skill you should charge for.
- Condition. A dog on a regular cycle is easy. A dog that has not been groomed since winter, with mats behind the ears and a pelted backend, is a different animal entirely.
- Behavior. A dog that fights the nail grind, the dryer, or the table adds time and risk. You are allowed to charge for that.
Build your base price off size and coat, then adjust up for condition and behavior. That is the whole system.
Build a tiered chart you can actually quote from
Put your common dogs into a few tiers and set a base for each. It does not need to be exact. It needs to be defensible and fast.
A rough shape might look like this. Small smooth coat, starting at fifty. Small to medium full coat (think a well-kept shih tzu or a cockapoo on cycle), starting at sixty-five. Large double coat needing a full de-shed, starting at ninety. Doodle or standard poodle in a full haircut, starting at ninety-five and up depending on length and tangling. The numbers are yours to set for your market, but the structure is what matters. You should be able to look at a dog, name a tier, and quote in ten seconds.
The word "starting" is doing real work there. It tells the truth: the final price depends on what you find when the dog is on the table.
Charge the add-ons separately and out loud
Bundling everything into one number hides the work and makes a fair price look high. Break out the extras so the base looks reasonable and the owner understands what they are paying for.
De-shed treatment, de-matting time billed by the quarter hour, nail grind on top of a basic trim, teeth brushing, a sanitary trim, glands. Each one is a clear line, each one is optional, and each one is a small upcharge that adds up over a full book. Owners do not mind paying for de-shedding once they understand a forty-pound husky is filling your trash can. They mind being surprised.
A matting policy that puts the dog first
This is the one to get right, because it is where the hard conversations live. Heavy matting is painful, and shaving down a pelted coat is slow, careful, sometimes risky work. You need a policy and a fee, and you need to say it kindly.
The principle is humanity over vanity. A tight pelt cannot be brushed out without hurting the dog, so the answer is a short shave, not hours of de-matting that the dog suffers through. Write it plainly: de-matting is billed by time, and for safety a severely matted coat will be shaved rather than brushed out. Owners hear "shave" and flinch, so explain the why before they ask. Most people, once they understand it is about the dog and not your convenience, are grateful. The ones who argue are telling you they will be a problem client, which is useful to know early.
Put "starting at" prices on your site
A lot of groomers hide their prices and then spend their whole day fielding "how much for a groom" texts that go nowhere. Publishing "starting at" prices, broken out by size and coat, does two jobs. It saves you the back-and-forth, and it pre-qualifies the caller. Someone who sees that a doodle starts at ninety-five and books anyway is not going to fight you on the price. Someone looking for a twenty-five dollar groom never calls, which is exactly what you want. Showing the prices is not giving away the store. It is screening the door.
Raising prices without losing the good ones
Your costs go up every year, so your prices have to. The mistake is doing it silently or apologetically. Give notice, a few weeks at least, and frame it around value rather than apology. A short note works: prices are adjusting on the first of next month, the new rate for your dog will be X, thank you for trusting me with him.
Your good clients, the ones on a regular cycle who tip and have the dog ready and do not haggle, will not blink at a modest increase. What they are buying is an unhurried, careful groom and a dog that comes home calm, and they know that takes time you have to be paid for. The ones who chase the cheapest table were never really yours; they bounce from shop to shop and treat every groom as a one-off transaction. Raising rates is not just about revenue. It is a gentle filter that keeps the clients you actually want.
If you would rather not handle the website and Google side
You can publish a clean price chart anywhere. If you would rather not build and keep up the website and Google Business Profile that shows it off, that is what we do at Grooming Studio, part of Lumo Studios. It is $79 a month, everything runs through email (no dashboard, no login), and we keep your site and Google profile current. Cancel anytime. Whoever builds it, get those starting-at prices out where owners can see them.